Lazy Days RV Lays Off 50

Posted by epcastro on June 14th, 2011 filed in Uncategorized
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It was a sad day for 50 people at Lazy Days RV today.  They laid off 50 people after making a major purchase of another dealership in Tuscon, AZ.

 

Read the article here: http://www2.tbo.com/news/business/2011/jun/14/1/lazydays-rv-buys-huge-tucson-dealership-ar-237353/


Airstream Excella 25

Posted by epcastro on June 9th, 2011 filed in Airstream
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Anyone looking for a great deal to own and Airstream for under $20,000?  Mike Castro can help you out.  He has a 1997 Airstream Excella 25 for $16,900 and it’s ready to go.  This beautiful Excella sleeps 4, has a front sofa bed, twin beds in the rear, TV antenna, range, refrigerator, furnace, air conditioner, water pump, new LP and carbon monoxide detectors and much more.

Call Mike Castro at 863-581-9784 with any questions.


It’s time to winterize

Posted by epcastro on November 15th, 2010 filed in Winterizing
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For the ones that live is the colder climates it’s time to winterize your trailer so your plumbing system stays safe.    Don’t just open that petcock valve on the fresh water tank and think everything will be OK.  Do it the correct way.  Drain the water heater and all the water from the plumbing system so nothing will burst during freezing temperatures.

You can either pump RV antifreeze through the system or you can pressurize the system with air and blow the water out.  If you use the antifreeze make sure it is for RV use.  The antifreeze you use for your car is not safe in your plumbing system.  You can usually find the RV type of antifreeze at any RV dealership or Wal-Mart.

Don’t forget to sanitize your system before the first use to help clear up any bad taste left from the antifreeze or residual water left in the plumbing system.


Back up camera

Posted by epcastro on May 22nd, 2010 filed in Uncategorized
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If you don’t want a traditional back up camera take a look at this:

http://astore.amazon.com/electronics02dd-20


Do you know what’s on the next exit?

Posted by epcastro on May 20th, 2010 filed in Navigating
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Have you ever been out on the road in your RV and it’s getting late, you’re hungry, you’re tired or the forbidden mechanical problem arises?  Have you been stuck scrambling around to figure out where you will be able to get in with your truck / car and trailer or where a service center is located.

Here are 3 guides everyone should keep with them.  Know what is on the next exit you are coming up on.


RV Extended Warranty

Posted by epcastro on May 16th, 2010 filed in Extended Warranty, Warranty
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Staying on the lines of warranty, when you purchase a new or used RV you will be given the option of purchasing an extended warranty.  I know it’s an exciting moment and the person on the other side of the desk is nice, friendly and helpful.  When you are presented this option please stop what you are doing and read the information.  A big part of the time extended warranty coverage is not relayed to the purchaser as the program is intended.  This is not meant to take a jab at the person presenting this to the customer, but they are generally paid a commission if you purchase the plan and say whatever it takes to get you to sign that contract.

If you are purchasing a new RV the extended warranty does not take effect until your existing manufacturers warranties run out.  You can wait to purchase this until near the end of your manufacturers warranty.  Not many finance personnel will tell you this.  If you decide to go this route make sure you enter into an extended warranty contract at least 3 months before your manufacturers warranty runs out.  This gives you 2 full months in the contract before your warranty runs out, therefore should something happen soon after your warranty runs out you will be covered.

Whether purchasing a new or used RV you should look at the plans presented to you.  Go over your choices and pick the plan that will cover the most for your dollar.  Be aware of the deductible amount, the dollar limits they will pay towards a visit etc.  There is nothing worse than going in for service to find out your extended warranty doesn’t cover that component you are having a problem with or your bill will be $825 after the deductible and find out they will only pay up to $400 for a repair.

If you don’t understand something ask.  If they can’t answer your question ask them to call the extended warranty company and have them explain it to you.  Read all the information you get from them after you sign.  You must follow their instructions to a “T”  if you want to be covered.  If you don’t notify them before service is performed they will not reimburse you.

No matter what you are told by the personnel at the RV dealership extended warranties do not cover everything bumper to bumper.  Extended warranties will not pay for sealing your roof, windows, shower, sinks etc, they will not pay for adjustments, they will not pay for damage done as a result of abuse, storm, mother nature.  If it is not written in your plan they will not cover it.  That is why it is best for you to read your contract and be well informed of what is covered and what is not.

Please feel free to share any of your experiences about extended warranty.  If you have any advice for others that can help them to avoid any heartaches please share.

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RV Manufacturer Warranty

Posted by epcastro on May 13th, 2010 filed in Warranty
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I can not stress enough how important it is to read your owners manual that comes with your RV. It looks like a generic book, but it has information in there that you need to know. Things that may not be relayed to you during your initial walk through after purchasing a new pop up, travel trailer, fifth wheel or motor home can be found in this manual.  If one is not included with your paperwork mark that down on the paperwork that goes back to the RV manufacturer from the dealership.  The paperwork I am referring to is the one that proves your warranty start date with the manufacturer or your PDI Checklist.  Request the dealership give you a we owe slip for an owners manual.

The first section you need to read is maintenance. Even if you have a 1 or 2 year warranty you are still responsible for maintenance. This is one of the main fights that develop between customer, RV dealership and manufacturer. Most owners manuals will go over what the manufacture considers the customer to maintain and how often it is recommended. It doesn’t go into this next piece of advice, but any maintenance you do should be recorded on a maintenance log and any products purchased to do the maintenance receipts should be kept. If you had an RV dealership do the work for you keep that work order as proof also even if it is the RV dealership you bought your RV from. This way if you do have a problem you can prove you followed the maintenance they consider to be your responsibility. If you can not show you have maintained your RV chances of them helping you with repairs will be slim to none.  It is your responsibility to show proof not your RV dealership.

Some forms of maintenance and customer responsibility are listed here, but this is not in any way a complete list.

*Sealant on roof, windows, seams, around vents, lights, shower, tub, drains, etc are your responsibility. They should be checked on a regular basis to make sure there are no gaps, voids or cracks in the sealant. If there are then new sealant needs to be applied so water intrusion does not happen.

*Lugs are your responsibility to check.  They should be checked before you make a trip and if you are on a long trip they should be checked during the trip also.

*Adjusting drawers, cabinets doors etc.  RV Manufacturers only cover adjustments for the first 30-90 days of ownership.  Each manufacture is different on this.  This is something you need to verify with your dealership before you leave.  The warranty administrator should be able to answer this question.   ***Adjustments are not warranty***

If you are out on the road and have a problem it’s OK to call the RV dealership that you purchased your trailer from, but chances are they can’t help you if you are in another state.  You should call the customer service line to the manufacturer.  They know where their dealers are located through out the United States.  They can help arrange getting you into another dealership for an appointment.  They also are alerted of the problem you are having should you mutually decide it’s not something that needs to be looked at right then and it can wait until you can get back to your selling dealer.

Most manufacturers these days are using the same rule.  If it is their component then they cover it, but if they use something from another supplier then it holds their warranty.  This becomes a nightmare for customers at times.  If you have a problem with your microwave and you have a Forest River travel trailer Forest River is not responsible for the warranty on that microwave.  It goes straight back to the manufacturer of that appliance.  This can also be a plus for a customer, because if they are out on the road or a distance from their selling dealer just about any RV dealership can work on that appliance.  So when you get that package from your dealership after the purchase of your new RV send in all the warranty cards for each appliance or register them online.  If your trailer has a 2 year warranty, but your microwave has 1 then after that first year you have no warranty on your microwave, but you will still have warranty on your trailer.

Tires are another pain for both customer and RV dealership.  This is an important one to know.  RV manufactures do not hold a tire warranty.  Problems with tires have to go back through the tire manufacture and this is something that is unfortunately the customer’s responsibility.  This is another piece of information you will find in the package of papers you are handed from your dealership after the purchase.  This is something I would say 95% of the time will not be relayed to a new customer.  Make sure you read the pamphlet on your tires.  It gives specific instructions should a problem arise.  If not followed the customer is out a lot of money.  You will also see they note that they are not responsible for damage caused due to tire failure.  I will tell you I have seen them take this case by case.  I’ve seen them pay and I’ve seen them stand to a firm no.

All the papers you receive when you purchase a new RV is worth reading.  It may seem tedious and time consuming, but can save you many headaches, tears and frustration in the long run.  Customer’s have to take responsibility for their new RV.  RV dealerships do not build them and are only allowed to make the repair the manufacture tells them.  If you don’t like the answer the manufacturer is giving your dealership never be afraid to call the manufacture and voice your opinion.

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Weight Distribution Hitch

Posted by epcastro on May 10th, 2010 filed in Weight Distribution Hitches
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Are you considering purchasing a travel trailer this year? For most people they have a tow vehicle with a 2 inch receiver mounted on their frame. In addition to this, one is required to purchase a weight distributing hitch. There are many brands and they are sold by the hitch weight of the trailer. For example if the hitch weight of the trailer is 1,000 pounds you would need at least a 1,000 pound weight distributing hitch. The purpose of the weight distributing hitch is to equalize the weight of the trailer through out the tow vehicle, rather than dragging it like a boat. Reese does a demonstration where they take the rear tires and wheels of the tow vehicle off and tow the trailer with only the weight distribution hitch.
In addition to the weight distributing hitch you must also have a anti-sway control. There are two kinds of sway controls available, the first one is a friction sway control which is very simple in it’s nature. It works using friction to resist the pivotal movement of the trailer. It is also referred to as a passive (Friction) system which stiffens the coupling between the tow vehicle and the trailer. The second kind is a cam system which is also referred to as an active sway control. The cam system goes beyond resisting sway and actually works to correct it. It is recommended for trailers over 30′ in length to have a dual cam sway control. The active sway control system holds the start of swaying while at the same time allowing vehicle and trailer interaction.

Click here for products and prices

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RV Rubber Roof Care And Maintenance

Posted by epcastro on May 7th, 2010 filed in Roof Care And Maintenance
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This is a question that is usually asked after there has been damage to a customer’s roof.  What type of roof care and maintenance should I be doing for the rubber roof on my RV?  It is really sad, because if that question had been asked the day the RV was purchased they could of saved themselves a lot of money and heartache.

The most popular type of roof on an RV these days is a rubber roof.   When I say rubber roof I don’t mean latex rubber.  The roof membrane I am talking about is EPDM or Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer.  If your RV roof is taken care of properly this membrane is made to last for 20 years or longer.  They will usually hold a 10 to 12 year warranty on them.  Should you not follow proper roof care and maintenance guidelines that warranty is null and void.

Cleaning your roof 4 times a year is the only maintenance recommended by EPDM manufacturers.  Believe it or not the manufacturers do not require using any protective roof treatment or protector at all.  One thing they all agree on is to never use harsh abrasives, citric based cleaners, or cleaners or conditioners that contain petroleum solvents.  Using these products can harm your roof and void your warranty.  Each manufacturer will recommend their own brand of cleaner, but all approve mild laundry detergent as a good choice for cleaning your roof.

After years you will notice that your roof will be chalky looking.  This is normal.  Even though your EPDM rubber roof doesn’t need to be protected from the ultraviolet rays and the ozone if you feel you must protect it the manufactures approve 303 Aerospace Protectant safe to help resist staining and make future cleanings easier.  This can be expensive so you might consider treating the whole roof once a year and only the parts you can see from the ground the other times.

Don’t forget after cleaning your roof while you are still up there to inspect all the roof seams, around the vents, and any extrusion from the roof line through the rubber roofing.  Make sure all the caulking is still gap and void free.  Check your AC shroud for cracks, your refrigerator vent for cracks and even your TV/Satellite antenna.  If anything needs attention now is a good time to take care of this.  Should your caulking need to be touched up remember to only use self leveling caulking.  Never use silicone on the extrusions, around vents etc.


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Welcome To Be A Happy Camper

Posted by epcastro on May 4th, 2010 filed in Welcome
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I decided to start this blog to help out the beginners and not so beginners with their RV experience. I have a 16 year back ground in the RV Industry. I have been responsible for checking new units in from the manufacturers, running the parts department, service writer and filing warranty claims to manufacturers.

My goal is to put tips, hints and tricks up here to help you out with your RV experience.

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